Where to
start when writing about the most famous path of the Amalfi Coast?
My favourite
time of year for walking this route is springtime with the flowers in full bloom
and days that are neither too hot nor too cold.
However even
in winter, on a clear, sunny day, or even on a cloudy grey day, it is something special, more than special. In
fact, I would go so far as to say that a dry winter’s day is preferable to
many other brighter ones in spring, summer or autumn, when hikers flock to the path and
overcrowd it, creating people jams along the trickier, more narrow stretches where
it is impossible to walk in other than single file.
It is not
the simple, flat, shady path that some Cruise ship companies, keen to sell the
excursion, make it out to be. It has some fairly ferocious uneven and steep stretches,
both up and down, whichever way you decide to walk it. It is definitely not for
anyone suffering from vertigo or having gammy knees or hips.
It is also not for
people in flip-flops or flimsy sandals (yes, they can sometimes be seen limping sadly
along), since the surface is often rough, stony and slippery. It can be blisteringly
hot in summer and there are long stretches without any shade at all, but
suitably clad and shod, and with a good supply of water, if you are unable to
come at any other time, do not be put off.
My friends and I generally start from Nocelle and turn the walk into a semi loop by taking the
upper trail from the intersection at
waymark 7 (Cisternuolo), gaining height and enjoying the grassy terraces with
their splendid views of the lower path and the sea below us.
From Colle Serra where
the upper and lower paths meet, we continue to Bomerano for a coffee and, why
not, a cake at Peppe’s bar, before re-tracing our steps to Colle Serra. Here we
will now follow the lower trail, going steeply downhill (or rather down rough steps)
before winding round the foot of the cliffs and up a short rocky
section, before returning to the intersection and back to Nocelle.
It is a unique experience and one not to be missed.
Loved this blog Ruth, absolutely spot on, this is mountain walking and far too many people go ill equipped and are not fit enough for the rough terrain with some steep ascents and descents. Stout walking shoes/boots are essential. It is also imperative not to underestimate the time you need for the walk. In late October after visiting relatives for lunch in Agerola we decided to walk back to Nocelle, leaving my brother-in-law to take the car. My husband preferred to take the upper path and being with a French friend we initially had quite a few photo stops until dusk quickly descended and we were only half way! My brother-in-law having arrived back in Nocelle with no sign of us, phoned me (mobile signal is very intermittent) and rescued us by walking to find us and bringing torches! This is not to be advised under any circumstances, the only safe alternative would have been to bed down until dawn. We were surprised that in the few years since we had last walked it how much the path had deteriorated with so much use and some of the newer safety fencing is broken. A lot of our B & B guests have also commented how they have been disappointed finding so many people jams .
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